I have the gtechniq Cs black on my car applied by Pro detailer and it is amazing. However, as stated by someone else, these coatings are susceptible to water spots because of the beading, which essentially collects the water and hence deposits in small spots as the beads dry. I once just rinsed my car no drying and got water spots, although I use softened water so not too bad. However, every time I washed the car even with drying they reappeared. I believe what you are seeing is your existing water spots reappearing as you remove the dirt hiding them during washing. I have since invested in a raceglaze filter and it is absolutely superb. No deposits left at all. It even dissolved my existing water spots after a few washes, although I suspect hard water ones may take a bit longer to go. Unfortunately if hard water spotting has etched into the surface it may well need a deep machine polish to remove them. I do not believe a badly applied coating would make a car more susceptible though and you just have to be so careful especially if washing the car in the sun.
Steve
Gtechniq
If I was you I would get onto the Detailing World Forum and ask your question there. If the people on that forum don't know the answer nobody does.PBT147 wrote: ↑Sat Apr 20, 2019 8:57 am Guys can anybody help me to find out what's going on with my car before & after cleaning. I had the GEN 3 Glasscoat applied on Macan 2 by dealer ready for collection. , I rinsed the whole car and then stood back and thought it doesn't look bad for just a rinse, however on closer inspection I noticed spots everywhere, glass, plastic & bodywork, not just a couple it was everywhere like the car had caught some sort of disease.
The Fireball product I referred to is a simple wipe on wipe off product. Very easy used. Doesn’t smell great but takes away any remaining water stains. Would think that should solve your issue and then invest in the water filter to maintain the finish. Vyair do a well priced alternative to Raceglaze.
I can vouch for the Vyair DI vessel which is very good but I do find the resin needs changing more often than I would like but I do live in a very hard water area
Current - 991.2 GTS C4 GT Silver
Previous: Macan GTS Night Blue
Previous: 981 Cayman S Agate
Previous: Macan GTS Night Blue
Previous: 981 Cayman S Agate
VanB invest in a second canister and use that as a pre filter. Currently you are throwing out resin that isn't good enough for the final rinse but can still serve some duty as a pre filter. Means the water getting to your second and fresher resin canister is already softened to some degree and therefore it does not need to work so hard and lasts longer. Once the resin in the final canister is partially expended you then use that canister as the pre filter and dump the really old resin. Hope that makes sense.
You end up with a 2 canister set up but the resin lasts a lot longer.
You end up with a 2 canister set up but the resin lasts a lot longer.
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I've had a Raceglaze filter for three years now. Issues are changing the resin as the top is a bugger to get off and don't buy the resin from them as it's so expensive. I have a leaf blower which is a crude way of getting rid of water from the discs and around the mirror casings but works a treat and, of course, there is no drying involved which is great.964steve wrote: ↑Sun Apr 21, 2019 8:41 am I have the gtechniq Cs black on my car applied by Pro detailer and it is amazing. However, as stated by someone else, these coatings are susceptible to water spots because of the beading, which essentially collects the water and hence deposits in small spots as the beads dry. I once just rinsed my car no drying and got water spots, although I use softened water so not too bad. However, every time I washed the car even with drying they reappeared. I believe what you are seeing is your existing water spots reappearing as you remove the dirt hiding them during washing. I have since invested in a raceglaze filter and it is absolutely superb. No deposits left at all. It even dissolved my existing water spots after a few washes, although I suspect hard water ones may take a bit longer to go. Unfortunately if hard water spotting has etched into the surface it may well need a deep machine polish to remove them. I do not believe a badly applied coating would make a car more susceptible though and you just have to be so careful especially if washing the car in the sun.
Steve
Dolomite Silver 'S' with red leather 14 way seats, Pano roof, Bose, Air suspension with pasm, Chrono pack, PDLS, Surround view, 911 turbo wheels, heated screen, spare wheel, ioniser,75 lt tank, black tail pipes, black roof rails.
Thanks guys for all your help. However I'm reaching out to you all again to try to help me to get my head around the following. After cleaning my car I have now noticed hairline scratches on some areas of the body work. At first I thought oh dear how have I managed to get a 6 inch long light scratch on the panel above the rear window, because it was where it was I just ignored it! Now this is the strange bit, I now have some 3 inch scratches on the bonnet too and also ones appeared on the roof near the first one I noticed (inch or two away) on the panel between the pan roof and rear door. I am meticulous whilst cleaning the car and I am always carefull when washing the car so I know I haven't caused these myself. I am hoping someone could advise me if it's possible I could have some sort of coating failure going on here. I have owned lots of cars and never had this issue before so hoping you can help.
- Nuclear Nick
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- Location: Bristol
Could it be cat scratches?
Nick
Defender 90 V8
991.2 C2 GTS
Macan Turbo - sold
BMW K1300S, BMW R1250 GSA
Defender 90 V8
991.2 C2 GTS
Macan Turbo - sold
BMW K1300S, BMW R1250 GSA