You can keep it at minute as long as you leave the keys with me so I can leaving it running on the driveFirstSeaLord wrote: ↑Mon Jul 24, 2023 12:38 pm They were talking £500k+, which rather put them off despite them clearly wanting to electrify.
I live nearby and rent my two spaces, which I'm lucky to have in such close proximity to my house - so there are very few other options available - and no scope to start installing my own sockets via a spur
Trickle charger but no mains power
On order
GT4 RS
Current
992 S
Macan.2 S
928S4
Modified Lotus Exige V6
Seat Ibiza 1.0 (115ps) DSG Excellence Lux(dog’s!)
Jag Mk2 3.4
Ex
981 Boxster S
GT4 RS
Current
992 S
Macan.2 S
928S4
Modified Lotus Exige V6
Seat Ibiza 1.0 (115ps) DSG Excellence Lux(dog’s!)
Jag Mk2 3.4
Ex
981 Boxster S
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Of course! What could possibly happen?Tracky wrote: ↑Mon Jul 24, 2023 3:18 pmYou can keep it at minute as long as you leave the keys with me so I can leaving it running on the driveFirstSeaLord wrote: ↑Mon Jul 24, 2023 12:38 pm They were talking £500k+, which rather put them off despite them clearly wanting to electrify.
I live nearby and rent my two spaces, which I'm lucky to have in such close proximity to my house - so there are very few other options available - and no scope to start installing my own sockets via a spur
Gen-3 Macan GTS (Volcano)
992 GT3 Touring (Agate)
718 Spyder (Arctic)
992 GT3 Touring (Agate)
718 Spyder (Arctic)
Sounds like there is no easy solution.
Gets worst, some providers are hiking up the cost per kWh.
I did see 70p per kWh quoted as the new rate by a Company that has the Lampost Chargers, not sure where.
Gets worst, some providers are hiking up the cost per kWh.
I did see 70p per kWh quoted as the new rate by a Company that has the Lampost Chargers, not sure where.
Col
Macan Turbo
Air, 20” wheels, ACC, Pano, SurCam, 14w, LEDs, PS+, Int Light Pack, Heated seats and Steering, spare wheel, SC, Privacy glass, PDK gear, SD mirrors, Met Black, rear airbags
Macan Turbo
Air, 20” wheels, ACC, Pano, SurCam, 14w, LEDs, PS+, Int Light Pack, Heated seats and Steering, spare wheel, SC, Privacy glass, PDK gear, SD mirrors, Met Black, rear airbags
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If you've ever worked on engines, which are connected to a dynamometer. Which is a piece of equipment that is located inside a workshop, to test engines for their BHP and Torque. You will find that because there is no external cooling, being created by the vehicle travelling through the air. They get to operating temperature far more quickly, than a car on the road. And as not reaching the same temp' as one being driven. You've obviously not seen how hot an exhaust manifold can get, glowing red, when testing. And you wont see this on a road car ever, even if you can view the manifold.Nuclear Nick wrote: ↑Mon Jul 24, 2023 11:17 amWould you care to enlarge on this?TheTraveller wrote: ↑Mon Jul 24, 2023 10:14 am As I've said before I despair at DIY mechanics, that don't know, the full story.
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Then you don't know many professional mechanic/restorers. As all will advise doing this, if the vehicle is being stored over a long period. In fact the procedure, on first start up after this period. Is to prevent the vehicle from firing up, when turning the igntion switch. To allow oil pressure to build up, and be pumped around the engine without it firing, so that the mechanicals receive that vital oil before it fires.GeeRam wrote: ↑Mon Jul 24, 2023 11:26 amVery few if any aviation museum's are allowed to do that on H&S grounds, as static exhibits have the engines inhibited. Some private collections, and external exhibits where they can be taxied (like Mossie and Just Jane at East Kirkby) and some of the outside airframes at Gatwick museum are sometimes ground run where possible, but they are exceptions not the norm. The fuel degradation isn't an issue with a jet or a big piston engine engine using AVTUR or AVGAS as no ethanol content.TheTraveller wrote: ↑Mon Jul 24, 2023 10:14 am As I've said before I despair at DIY mechanics, that don't know, the full story.
It is a good practice to run an engine up to full operating temp, of a stored vehicle. The engine does get hot enough, more so than a short run to the local shops. There are other systems on the vehicle that can benefit, a run. But if it's stored and off roaded, then then running the engine up regularly, would be an absolute benefit.
And that's why the engines of display aircraft in museums where possible, have the same procedure implemented. As most of them have no C of A to fly.
I don't know of one professional mechanic/restorer that recommends running an engine alone over a winter layup. Its either don't run, and layup properly or drive it once a month on suitable days and get everything up to temp, including heating/air con systems, and other functions.
Why do you think engines in cars that have been laid up for years, are sometimes siezed. BECAUSE THEY'VE HAD TO LUBRICATION.
Oh but I do, as I've been around vintage/classic cars for 40 years......and as I said, none of the dozen or so professionals I know very well recommend it, and especially so for newer stuff (less than 40 years old)TheTraveller wrote: ↑Tue Jul 25, 2023 2:42 pmThen you don't know many professional mechanic/restorers. As all will advise doing this, if the vehicle is being stored over a long period.GeeRam wrote: ↑Mon Jul 24, 2023 11:26 amVery few if any aviation museum's are allowed to do that on H&S grounds, as static exhibits have the engines inhibited. Some private collections, and external exhibits where they can be taxied (like Mossie and Just Jane at East Kirkby) and some of the outside airframes at Gatwick museum are sometimes ground run where possible, but they are exceptions not the norm. The fuel degradation isn't an issue with a jet or a big piston engine engine using AVTUR or AVGAS as no ethanol content.TheTraveller wrote: ↑Mon Jul 24, 2023 10:14 am As I've said before I despair at DIY mechanics, that don't know, the full story.
It is a good practice to run an engine up to full operating temp, of a stored vehicle. The engine does get hot enough, more so than a short run to the local shops. There are other systems on the vehicle that can benefit, a run. But if it's stored and off roaded, then then running the engine up regularly, would be an absolute benefit.
And that's why the engines of display aircraft in museums where possible, have the same procedure implemented. As most of them have no C of A to fly.
I don't know of one professional mechanic/restorer that recommends running an engine alone over a winter layup. Its either don't run, and layup properly or drive it once a month on suitable days and get everything up to temp, including heating/air con systems, and other functions.
Older pre-70's era stuff is more tolerant of it, but depends on clutch state, and other stuff, but even then, its now not as recommended for the older stuff because of the ethanol content of modern fuels which creates more issues with longer term storage, as well as the effects on older style fuel systems and tanks etc.
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I too have been around these professionals, for over 50 years now. Why?, because I was one. Enough said.GeeRam wrote: ↑Mon Sep 04, 2023 3:57 pmOh but I do, as I've been around vintage/classic cars for 40 years......and as I said, none of the dozen or so professionals I know very well recommend it, and especially so for newer stuff (less than 40 years old)TheTraveller wrote: ↑Tue Jul 25, 2023 2:42 pmThen you don't know many professional mechanic/restorers. As all will advise doing this, if the vehicle is being stored over a long period.GeeRam wrote: ↑Mon Jul 24, 2023 11:26 am
Very few if any aviation museum's are allowed to do that on H&S grounds, as static exhibits have the engines inhibited. Some private collections, and external exhibits where they can be taxied (like Mossie and Just Jane at East Kirkby) and some of the outside airframes at Gatwick museum are sometimes ground run where possible, but they are exceptions not the norm. The fuel degradation isn't an issue with a jet or a big piston engine engine using AVTUR or AVGAS as no ethanol content.
I don't know of one professional mechanic/restorer that recommends running an engine alone over a winter layup. Its either don't run, and layup properly or drive it once a month on suitable days and get everything up to temp, including heating/air con systems, and other functions.
Older pre-70's era stuff is more tolerant of it, but depends on clutch state, and other stuff, but even then, its now not as recommended for the older stuff because of the ethanol content of modern fuels which creates more issues with longer term storage, as well as the effects on older style fuel systems and tanks etc.
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