Porsche Macan Forums

Had my GTS since March and it’s an excellent car. Putting this out here just to see if anyone else has experienced previously or also see this.

I have setup the small left dial with options for the diamond (stop start) mirror fold and added the boost gauge to the views and several other setting. Randomly yesterday I got into the car an noticed the boost gauge gone an units reset to bar instead of PSI. All other settings lost and defaulted to factory.

Spent 5 mins getting it all setup again for it to reset again within 5 mins.

Got home did it all again and decided to change key battery as I could not think of anything else to do to try to rectify.

Anyway since I did it 2 days ago its not lost settings - fingers crossed it stays that way.

Anyone else seen this on current or previous Gen? Any thoughts on key battery being a fix or fluke?

Make sure you've saved your settings to the key and not to as you left the car.
The tick in the box was a little counter-intuative on the Mk 1 (something like untick memory....)


Again, applied to the Mk1 - might help

viewtopic.php?f=20&t=9419&p=190335&hili ... ry#p190335

Hi

I saved to the key via the memory module, not sure where the check box hides in the Gen II. All setting made 3 months ago have stayed saved until this week. Appears to be random, did notice the lane assit light flick to on when it reset the 2nd time.

Has the car’s battery been kept fully charged in the time you’ve had it? A low battery, together with attempted starts, will sometimes erase memory settings. I’d be surprised if the key battery was an issue at this age.

It reset while driving....

I don't know how many of your keys are actually in use. It is five years ago now but I got so fed up with conflict between the one key used for the car and what I thought I had set up that I disabled the key memory function and relied on the door settings. There are only two drivers for my car so using memory 1 & 2 works fine for us.

On-Track wrote: ↑Tue Jun 23, 2020 10:57 am I don't know how many of your keys are actually in use. It is five years ago now but I got so fed up with conflict between the one key used for the car and what I thought I had set up that I disabled the key memory function and relied on the door settings. There are only two drivers for my car so using memory 1 & 2 works fine for us.

Thanks for this thought on the 2 keys, which I do have. I use the door memory and send to key - not sure where else the settings live for saving to the key?
Anyway, latest update is that the day after my original post after I put a new Duracell battery in, the car indicated I needed to replace the battery; I took out the battery and bent the connection pins upwards to allow it to make a better connection (not a great design). Now 3 days later I have had no low battery and no reset issues - might be resolved.

Apologies if I'm telling you something your already know but your post above prompted a thought. There are two sizes of lithium iron button batteries, 2025 and 2032. The difference between them is thickness. The correct key battery is 2032, the thinner battery (.7mm difference) results in poor or no connection.

On-Track wrote: ↑Fri Jun 26, 2020 10:15 am Apologies if I'm telling you something your already know but your post above prompted a thought. There are two sizes of lithium iron button batteries, 2025 and 2032. The difference between them is thickness. The correct key battery is 2032, the thinner battery (.7mm difference) results in poor or no connection.

The CR2025 (thinner) cell battery is the one to use, if you install the 'Keyless Protector', which wraps around the cell battery, and therefore requires a thinner battery. (The 'Keyless Protector' cuts out the signal from the keyless fob, when away from the car, so the signal can't be cloned by car thieves. When you need to open the car door, you just give the fob in your pocket, a couple of taps and the signal is switched on, and the fob remains switched on whilst you are driving.)

RAA wrote: ↑Sat Jun 27, 2020 9:21 am

On-Track wrote: ↑Fri Jun 26, 2020 10:15 am Apologies if I'm telling you something your already know but your post above prompted a thought. There are two sizes of lithium iron button batteries, 2025 and 2032. The difference between them is thickness. The correct key battery is 2032, the thinner battery (.7mm difference) results in poor or no connection.

The CR2025 (thinner) cell battery is the one to use, if you install the 'Keyless Protector', which wraps around the cell battery, and therefore requires a thinner battery. (The 'Keyless Protector' cuts out the signal from the keyless fob, when away from the car, so the signal can't be cloned by car thieves. When you need to open the car door, you just give the fob in your pocket, a couple of taps and the signal is switched on, and the fob remains switched on whilst you are driving.)

I think we're both right. I accept what you say in relation to a "keyless" car but for the traditional key the "Good To Know" app quotes 2032.