Wheel Seized on Hubs

Wheels, Tyres, Suspension, Chassis, Issues and Fixes
Angling Mad
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Post by Angling Mad »

I got within 5 miles of a fishing day on the Test last week and the rear offside tyre got a puncture. I have to say the pressure sensors are excellent, stopping me wrecking the wheel/ tyre and luckily glided into a layby. Promptly unloaded the stuff, jacked up the car and removed the bolts only to find the wheel totally seized onto the hub. Phoned Porsche and the tech said yes that is common! at which point my temperature went up as I had to call out mr AA and 1.25 hours later he arrived with a mallet and after a few pretty heavy clouts got it sorted. After hitting the road at 0500 I missed the first 2 hours fishing so not in best of moods. I will be carrying a rubber mallet with me from now on and when it goes in for the first service I will get them to check each wheel is free and grease them to avoid it happening again.

BTW - Porsche recommended I changed both rear tyres as they do not allow repairs or more than 3mm different in tyre wear between wheels. So I took it to my usual local tyre shop and they said it was safe to carry out a repair. Luckily Mr AA did not leave any damage on the rim and after checking the book for the wheel nut torque settings the guys bolted back up with Torque wrench all for £16.20 inc VAT.

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Nuclear Nick
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Post by Nuclear Nick »

You might have freed it by loosening the wheels bolts a little, off the jack, and rolling the car back and fore a few times and/or rocking the car while stationary.

This is a very common problem, given the dissimilar metals and salted roads promoting corrosion. It can be prevented by wire brushing the hub spigot and applying a THIN smear of grease before refitting the wheel.
Nick

Defender 90 V8

991.2 C2 GTS

Macan Turbo - sold

BMW K1300S, BMW R1250 GSA
Tall Phil
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Post by Tall Phil »

Copper grease should be applied but it is quicker for the service techs not to and just wire brush off any corrosion cause by the dissimilar metals.

Just had a front tyre replaced, puncture on the middle of the tread, not the shoulders, and was told providing the other tyre (on the same axle) has no more than 4mm tread depth difference the the new tyre, then the vehicle four-wheel drive system will work fine.
GTS \o/ - sold :(
CharlesElliott
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Post by CharlesElliott »

Unfortunately copper grease can encourage bi-metallic corrosion. Porsche only recommend Optimoly TA.

55477537-0510-4B4E-AA32-855EB2CB3F22.png

Macan GTS: PH1UFLL8
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ScotMac
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Post by ScotMac »

I had a similar problem on a one year old Saab years ago (luckily at home). Eventually used a 10 foot plank to remove the wheel.

Now I always remove the wheels from a new car and clean and grease them. I did this on my Macan just after I got it. Haven't had them off since though.

No idea why the manufacturers cannot apply a film of grease in the factory.
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Tim92gts
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Post by Tim92gts »

ScotMac wrote: Sun Dec 10, 2017 3:58 pm I had a similar problem on a one year old Saab years ago (luckily at home). Eventually used a 10 foot plank to remove the wheel.

Now I always remove the wheels from a new car and clean and grease them. I did this on my Macan just after I got it. Haven't had them off since though.

No idea why the manufacturers cannot apply a film of grease in the factory.
It's very thick, sticky stuff and seems to end up everywhere.

Probably not ideal in a squeaky clean factory but it is an assembly grease, use sparingly, last time I looked it was £40 for a toothpaste tube sized portion.

Very good in high temperature dissimilar metal situations. I'll put that on my to do list.
Tim
PP Turbo, LED PTV ACC Pano 20"Macans collected 6th September 2017
1992 928GTS
2003 996 Cab
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Red5
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Post by Red5 »

Friction between the surfaces it a big part of what keeps the wheel securely in place. The surfaces should never be greased, as you transfer the load to the bolts. You then have five high load hot spots!

The wheel bolt torque recommendations are then moot, so really you’ll need lots more lb/ft.
This however, will make my above point worse and make a wheel failure more likely!

We’re taliking about pretty large bearing surfaces here. The difference in friction between greased and non greased will be massive!

Also, if an AA man can use a mallet, you can free a wheel yourself with no risk of damage.
Sit on a car mat and put the flat/sole of each foot on the wheel/tyre at 3 and 9 o’clock.
Legs bent at 90deg, now stamp on each side in turn as required. You’re using the tyre sidewall.

You’ll not have to try very hard to achieve what a rubber mallet can do! You can use the strength of your legs and the inertia of your body weight.

If the wheel won’t come off like this in a min or two, then you’ll be needing a workshop.

The old trick of freeing the bolts and rolling the car a little is best avoided. In the old days, when this was more used, most cars didn’t weigh 1/2 as much as a Macan does. They also made nothing like the power or torque.

Risking and undue stress in this area is a massive no-no.
Last edited by Red5 on Wed Dec 13, 2017 10:52 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Nuclear Nick
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Post by Nuclear Nick »

Red5 wrote: Tue Dec 12, 2017 10:20 pm The old trick of freeing the bolts and rolling the car a little is best avoided. In the old days, when this was more used, most cars didn’t weigh 1/2 as much as a Macan does. They also made nothing like the power or torque.

Risking and undue stress in this area is a massive no-no.
Agree with most of your points except the last one. Older, lighter cars didn't have the larger, stronger components of today's high powered cars. The stresses imposed to free a stuck wheel by rolling it gently with slightly loosened bolts is minimal compared with the stresses of normal driving. By all means try to free it manually, if you are fit and able to do so, but if you are in the middle of nowhere with no phone signal then needs must.
Nick

Defender 90 V8

991.2 C2 GTS

Macan Turbo - sold

BMW K1300S, BMW R1250 GSA
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Red5
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Post by Red5 »

Nuclear Nick wrote: Tue Dec 12, 2017 11:00 pm
Red5 wrote: Tue Dec 12, 2017 10:20 pm The old trick of freeing the bolts and rolling the car a little is best avoided. In the old days, when this was more used, most cars didn’t weigh 1/2 as much as a Macan does. They also made nothing like the power or torque.

Risking and undue stress in this area is a massive no-no.


Agree with most of your points except the last one. Older, lighter cars didn't have the larger, stronger components of today's high powered cars. The stresses imposed to free a stuck wheel by rolling it gently with slightly loosened bolts is minimal compared with the stresses of normal driving. By all means try to free it manually, if you are fit and able to do so, but if you are in the middle of nowhere with no phone signal then needs must.
I do agree, that in an emergency this will work. I’d do this too as a last resort.
Pop something under the inside edge of the tyre and go for it, if it’s an emergency.
I’d not risk it to make sure I was on time to fishing ;)

I also agree that materials are larger / stronger etc. However, this is proportional to the weight and power I mentioned, as having increased so dramatically too.

After all, these bigger stronger components are only more effective, when being used exactly as deisgned in the correct plains.

I’m all for keeping mobile in an emergency, but feel the potential for damage is high, for an unskilled person messing with a heavy 150mph+ car.

I think without any other knowledge or skills, the OP did exactly the correct thing calling the AA :D

The fish were glad he was late I’m sure :lol:
Last edited by Red5 on Wed Dec 13, 2017 10:59 am, edited 1 time in total.
CharlesElliott
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Post by CharlesElliott »

Appropriate grease on the mounting flanges is recommended by Porsche.
Macan GTS: PH1UFLL8
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