Porsche Macan Forums

This is what Blackcircles list for the rear....107XL and in N1 for Porsche.

According to Costco the front XL rating is a typo - NO don’t come in XL..

BC list NO, N1 and N2. NO seems the first gen tyre

Am89 wrote: ↑Tue Mar 17, 2020 9:09 pm According to Costco the front XL rating is a typo - NO don’t come in XL..

BC list NO, N1 and N2. NO seems the first gen tyre

BTW, talking of typos, it's N0, not NO. Sounds picky I know, but could affect searches if not entered correctly. Recently my brother was desperately trying to find his flight details but couldn't. Eventually we realised he was using an O instead of a zero.

^^^ . Glad u corrected me there.

Costco seem to be out of stock for the fronts so I’ll maybe need to purchase from 2 different suppliers

My latitude sports are being fitted this week, from Costco. Does my air suspension need to be deactivated? Sure I read a post on here that it can try to self level when jacked up or on a ramp?

Am89 wrote: ↑Mon Mar 23, 2020 1:31 pm My latitude sports are being fitted this week, from Costco. Does my air suspension need to be deactivated? Sure I read a post on here that it can try to self level when jacked up or on a ramp?

Yes it does need to be switched off

I had set of new latitude S3’s fitted and wheel alignment carried out today. The car drives better with more traction and steering response however I’ve found I need to make small corrections on the wheel even when driving on a straight road and occasionally the wheel will look slightly off centre but other times look completely centred ( all different patches of road but all straight )? Anyone else notice this or just me? Could it be down to the large wheels and changes of camber on the road surface? I’m running 21” wheels and air suspension.

Am89 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 26, 2020 9:59 pm I had set of new latitude S3’s fitted and wheel alignment carried out today. The car drives better with more traction and steering response however I’ve found I need to make small corrections on the wheel even when driving on a straight road and occasionally the wheel will look slightly off centre but other times look completely centred ( all different patches of road but all straight )? Anyone else notice this or just me? Could it be down to the large wheels and changes of camber on the road surface? I’m running 21” wheels and air suspension.

Sounds normal to me and I think your assessment is correct. The new tyres are tracking camber and surface changes more accurately. As long as any changes to front wheel toe-in were done the same both sides your steering wheel should be centred on straight roads most of time. Virtually all roads will have some degree of camber and will need some steering correction. Side winds can affect directional stability too.

Am89 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 26, 2020 9:59 pm I had set of new latitude S3’s fitted and wheel alignment carried out today. The car drives better with more traction and steering response however I’ve found I need to make small corrections on the wheel even when driving on a straight road and occasionally the wheel will look slightly off centre but other times look completely centred ( all different patches of road but all straight )? Anyone else notice this or just me? Could it be down to the large wheels and changes of camber on the road surface? I’m running 21” wheels and air suspension.

Do check that the tyre pressures are correct. Do this when the tyres are cold [before rather than after driving it] and the vehicle has not been sat in direct sunlight.

Also bed [run-in] the tyres by driving ideally at no more than 50 mph for 200 miles:
"All new tyres need a running-in period. To run in your tyres, you should drive at moderate speeds during the first 125-200 miles, in order to improve long term tyre performance. Until you have adapted your driving style to the new tyres, rapid accelerations and sudden braking during the first miles are not recommended."
And...
"new tyres need to bed-in to suit your cars chassis/suspension setup. No two cars will have the exact same geometry/alignment etc., and again, new tyres need a couple of hundred miles for their tread blocks to wear down to suit the car."

Also....
"New tyres are coated in a releasing agent to stop them sticking to the mould during manufacture.
This releasing agent acts as a barrier between the tyres rubber and the road surface, thus reducing the tyres initial grip level (especially on damp/wet roads!). This can lead to owners thinking that the tyres are defective when they are not.

Next, new tyres are not perfectly round when they come out of the moulds and the tread blocks are not all at the exact same height. The tyres have slight high spots on them that wear away after the first couple of hundred miles or so. This can also make a car feel skittish on new tyres."

Never knew there was a specific run in procedure with new tyres, thanks!

My post alignment spec sheet, front and rear toe looks equal. Was worried about rear camber being far apart but was told this is fine and within spec.